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Chainsaw sharpeners
In the upper right part of North America we have a better solution for monsters like that.
We saw it into lumber, sell the boards and buy firewood with the money.
Not as adventurous as your solution, but sure is easier on the back.
Best of luck.
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Chainsaw sharpeners
Actually Randy you'd be surprised how nice some "junk" wood species look all sawed up and finished into something.
Have a read over the discussion below.
Best of luck.
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Chainsaw sharpeners
Peters is right, it is mostly the drying rate that is causing the twisting.
If you ever have to do it again, the important factors are; a) LOTS of room for air flow, b) EVEN air flow, and c) protection from the elements, sun, wind, rain, or even too much heat, like in a closed-up shed will make the nicest board twist.
I made up some brackets to keep our boards straight as they dry, they are 2"x2" heavy wall tubing with loops welded to half of them, and smooth rollers attached to the other half. A few of them are laid out like sleepers for the wood to be piled on top of, and when the stack is finished, more go on top. A cable leads from the bottom back, up & over the rollers on the top ones, then down to a cable come-along which connects to the the lower front loops. This binds the whole stack into a nice tight bundle, and the winch is periodically tightened up to keep it under tension as the wood shrinks and dries.
Just adding weight to the top of the pile usually does little, since the cumulative effect of all those boards warping just lifts the weights.
Best of luck.
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Chainsaw sharpeners
The problem with these types of "sharpeners" is two-fold.
First, the stone is very small, so wear is a major issue, after just a few uses the stone will be much smaller, thus changing both the radius, and the resulting shape of the saw's tooth.
Secondly, a Dremel (or other similar sized tool) is very hard to control precisely, the end result will be over or under sharpened teeth, as well as a wide variety of shapes of the teeth.
The 'proper' tool for sharpening a chainsaw blade is much like a small power mitre box saw but with about an 8" diameter blade, usually either carborundum or diamond tipped steel. In years of regular use these blades don't wear much.
The other minor issue is one of metalurgy. With the exception of a file, any hand tool will be in contact with the tooth long enough to generate considerable heat. The big 'pro' grinders just kiss the edge of the tooth and barely take anything off, and so do not heat it enough to take the temper out of it either.
The other tip is to buy a roll of chain, and make it, or have it made into loops for your saw. Doing it this way the blades are *really* cheap on a per piece basis. You can then take a bunch of blades in at once to be sharpened. Most places will give you a big discount to sharpen 10 or more blades at once.
The end result is you always have enough sharp blades that you never have to do anything but swap chain loops and the overall cost is dramatically less.
Best of luck.
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